Woodworking Construction Project -Garden chair full project with Construction Details
Garden chair full project with Construction Details
This simply constructed but elegant garden chair was created by the Rodale Design Group with outdoor use in mind.
However, after a few test models had been built, particularly the double-width version pictured, we decided that this chair would make an attractive and comfortable piece of indoor furniture as well.
The smaller, outdoor chair - which is the one described in the instructions - is made inexpensively of construction-grade pine covered with two coats of exterior latex enamel.
Set out on a porch, under a rose arbor or a favorite shade tree, it provides a sturdy, pleasant place to sit back and enjoy the surroundings. The indoor chair is made of mahogany, finished clear,
A novel feature of the garden chair is the way in which it is assembled. No hinges, bolts, or other fasteners are used. The slatless portion of the seat rails merely slides into place between the two wooden stops attached to the back rails, until the bottom slats of both the seat and the back come together. The chair supports itself in this position, yet may be pulled apart easily
for storage or transportation.
CONSTRUCTION of Garden Chair
1 . Cut two pieces of 2 X 6 ( 1 Y2 " X 5 Y2 " ) stock to 39Yz inches each for the back rails.
2. Cut the back rails to proper shape using the grid provided in illustration A.
3. Cut two pieces of 2 X 6 stock to 35Yz inches each for the seat rails.
4. Cut the seat rails to proper shape using the grid provided in illustration A.
5 . Cut 20 pieces of 1 X 2 ( % " X Biz " ) stock to 23 inches each for the seat and back slats.
6. Cut two pieces of 1 X 2 to 1 8 inches each for the stops.
7. Cut a -inch radius along all edges of the rails and slats and along the four long edges of each stop. Use a router equipped with a 0.25 inch rounding-over bit.
8. Clamp the back rails together with their ends and edges flush. Square a line across
the inside (concave) edge of both pieces every 2 inches, measuring from the top
end, until you have drawn 1 1 lines. These lines mark the position for the back slats.
9. Un clamp and spread the back rails 18 inches apart, outside edge to outside edge,
with their concave edges up. Attach 12 back slats to the rails with waterproof glue and 6d finishing nails. Center each slat so that it extends 212 inches to the outside of each rail. Make the top edge of the first slat flush with the top ends of the back rails. Position the remaining back slats so their top edges are flush with the lines drawn across the rails .
10. Clamp the seat rails together with their ends and edges flush. Square a line across
the inside (convex) edge of both pieces every 2 inches, beginning from the front
end, until you have drawn seven lines. These lines mark the position for the seat
slats .
11 . Unclamp and spread the seat rails apart so that they measure 1 4% inches outside
edge to outside edge. Fasten eight slats to the seat rails with waterproof glue and 6d
finishing nails. Center each slat so that it extends 4Ys inches to the outside of each rail. Position the first slat with its front edge flush with the front ends of the seat
rails. Position the remaining slats with their front edges flush with the lines drawn
across the rails.
12 . Position one stop 2'Ys inches below the bottom slat of the back rail, its ends flush with the outside edges of the rails. Fasten the stop to the rails with waterproof glue and 6d finishing nails.
13 . Position the other stop on the rear side of the back rails, so the ends of the stop are
flush with the outside edges of the rails, and the stop's bottom edge is 1 5 inches
from the bottom ends of the rails, measured along the curve. Fasten this stop
to the rails with waterproof glue and 6d finishing nails.
14. Set all nails and fill the holes with wood filler. When the filler is dry, sand the entire
chair, then finish with two coats of exterior grade enamel or polyurethane.
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